Cat Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Hi guys, I’ve not posted in a while, just being busy! I have a serious issue with my red brindle boy Rufus, seen here with his half brother Vinnie ( red wheaten). Rufus just always has and I guess always will, pick up whatever he shouldn’t, socks, kids little toys, in fact anything he can swallow. We’ve had about 4 vet visits to make him sick when he’s eaten stuff. Tonight on his walk he grabbed a ‘treasure’ and started to try to swallow it, I couldn’t get it off him and had to rush home, put on leather gloves and force his mouth open, they have such a strong bite and without the gloves I couldn’t get near him. I managed to remove the ‘treasure’ a knotted piece of rope which was on its way to being swallowed. He is really stubborn and won’t ‘give’ not for treats or anything. He doesn’t really play with toys so offering a favourite toy doesn’t work. He is a terrible ball thief on a walk but not interested in balls at home! He’s now 3. I had hoped he’d outgrow this behaviour but as yet that’s not the case. If his brother has anything I want him to leave I can just take hold of the item, tell him to leave and he does. Lots of fuss for doing as he’s told. But Rufus is a whole different issue, I have tried to teach leave by giving him something to hold but he won’t take it! No interest. He only wants what he shouldn’t have. Cairns eh! So, is a muzzle the only way forwards, and if so, any tips on the best ones? oh when I feed them they sit patiently while I prep their food then lock eyes on me until I give them permission to eat, so they can be very good and controlled.. thanks in advance for any advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam I Am Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Sam who is six now, had many a visit to the vet until he was two yrs old…he would eat his toys ! So now he only gets to play with his toys when I am there to supervise but thankfully he does not show any interest in anything else. The only thing I would suggest is to fit him with a wire basket on his walks, I know that’s not ideal but it will stop him from getting into things on his walk that he shouldn’t. Quote Until one has loved an animal, a part of one's soul remains unawakened. - Anatole France Adventures with Sam &Rosie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Hi Sam I Am, thanks for replying. I’ve seen the wire cage ones also plastic, any views on which is best? I think the wire look a bit ‘Silence of the Lambs’! It will be interesting getting him muzzle trained, took ages to get him to be happy with his lead, he’s a free spirit! Note to put more peanut butter on my shopping list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradl Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 45 minutes ago, Cat said: I’ve seen the wire cage ones also plastic, any views on which is best? Both are good, each with their strengths. Wire is particularly good for ventilation and allowing the dog to see out, when that is desirable. A cover or event towels can create a den if needed. Plastic is good for trapping warmth and for denning and more privacy, when that is desirable. Also lighter for putting in and taking out of the car, although they tend not to fold down like metal crates often do. We have both types in various rooms around the house and all are used for napping, feeding, hanging out, time out, etc. Our "main" crates are wire we have floor-to-ceiling window across the hall from them so I put obscuring acrylic panels down low so the dogs cannot see out into the yard and be bothered by squirrels, etc. We feel this lets them relax by not feeling they have to be on guard, especially when we are not home. 1 Quote CAIRNTALK: Questions? Need help? → Support Forum Please do not use PMs for tech support CRCTC: Columbia River Cairn Terrier Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbs Dog Logic Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Teach your dog to open his mouth on command. Photo of my dog doing that. She started talking on her own, as a result of me simply working with her when she was 8 weeks old, to OPEN her mouth on cue. How? Start with the dinner bowl. YOU put your dog on a leash (yes indoors)., sit on the leash to make your hands free and available, hold only one piece of kibble (food), in front of dog's mouth and say "open". Of course a dog will open his mouth to eat the ONE piece of food. Repeat until food dish is empty. Step #2. Put one piece of food between your pointer finger and your middle finger, (like the position one does for holding a cigarette between your fingers). Palm facing hungry dog, say the word "TOUCH". The hungry dog will nibble to get the piece of food, thus, touching your hand with his wet nose. Repeat for entire dish of food. TOUCH, is a hand target trick used my countless dog trainers and dog obedience instructors. Step #3. This might be day #3 or it might be "whenever" you are prepared for the next level of OPEN mouth on command. LEASH on dog, you are comfortably sitting on floor, place dog in your lap, his BACK to you, the mouth facing outwards. Now gently place your hand on top of dog's muzzle, simultaneously present the ONE piece of food in your hand and SHOVE it into the dog's mouth as you say OPEN. difficult to explain without a video, but I have worked with many , many, many aggressive dogs and training the dog to sit (on leash, you have dog in your lap) and you say OPEN as you physically open their mouth and at SAME TIME you are shoving food into dog's mouth. Real Life success story: Chyp got a stick in his mouth, it unfortunately lodged itself sideways. He began thrashing around, frantically pawing at his face, and BECAUSE we taught him..... "OPEN", he let me open his mouth and I had to pry the stick out. Many more stories like this one, but I am trying to keep my answer short. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Ahhh that is an interesting thought! I have tried to get him to leave since being tiny but he is so very stubborn! I have also tried offering him socks to hold so I can teach leave, but he’s having none of it! Giving the side eye I want nothing to do with that thank you! But feeding his food a bit at a time sounds a good idea. Thanks for that! the photo looks just like my Rufus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Bradl, apologies, we are at cross purposes, I was talking about the basket/ cage muzzles to stop him picking things up! He’s much quicker than I am no matter how much I’m watching the ground on a walk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradl Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Oopsie, my reading comprehension is not what it once was, nor what it should be. We use a plastic basket muzzle when necessary. It's stamped Baskerville Size 1. Quote CAIRNTALK: Questions? Need help? → Support Forum Please do not use PMs for tech support CRCTC: Columbia River Cairn Terrier Club Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Hahaha! No worries! Thank you for following up, that looks like a good product I shall invest and start the training.Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyzt Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 On 2/1/2024 at 10:10 AM, Barbs Dog Logic said: Teach your dog to open his mouth on command. Photo of my dog doing that. She started talking on her own, as a result of me simply working with her when she was 8 weeks old, to OPEN her mouth on cue. How? Start with the dinner bowl. YOU put your dog on a leash (yes indoors)., sit on the leash to make your hands free and available, hold only one piece of kibble (food), in front of dog's mouth and say "open". Of course a dog will open his mouth to eat the ONE piece of food. Repeat until food dish is empty. Step #2. Put one piece of food between your pointer finger and your middle finger, (like the position one does for holding a cigarette between your fingers). Palm facing hungry dog, say the word "TOUCH". The hungry dog will nibble to get the piece of food, thus, touching your hand with his wet nose. Repeat for entire dish of food. TOUCH, is a hand target trick used my countless dog trainers and dog obedience instructors. Step #3. This might be day #3 or it might be "whenever" you are prepared for the next level of OPEN mouth on command. LEASH on dog, you are comfortably sitting on floor, place dog in your lap, his BACK to you, the mouth facing outwards. Now gently place your hand on top of dog's muzzle, simultaneously present the ONE piece of food in your hand and SHOVE it into the dog's mouth as you say OPEN. difficult to explain without a video, but I have worked with many , many, many aggressive dogs and training the dog to sit (on leash, you have dog in your lap) and you say OPEN as you physically open their mouth and at SAME TIME you are shoving food into dog's mouth. Real Life success story: Chyp got a stick in his mouth, it unfortunately lodged itself sideways. He began thrashing around, frantically pawing at his face, and BECAUSE we taught him..... "OPEN", he let me open his mouth and I had to pry the stick out. Many more stories like this one, but I am trying to keep my answer short. That... is... brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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